,Okay, I need to tell you something that I probably should have been telling every single client who sat in my chair from the very beginning of my career. Loc size is not just a hair decision. It is a whole face decision. And when you get it right, the difference is genuinely transformative in a way that is almost impossible to fully explain until you see it with your own eyes.
I learned this lesson the hard way through a client I will never forget. She came in wanting the thinnest micro locs I could possibly install. She had seen them on someone online and was completely set on replicating that exact look. I had a feeling in my gut that the size was not going to work the way she was imagining, but she was so certain and so excited that I went ahead and honored her decision.
Two months later she was back in my chair, not unhappy with her locs exactly, but just feeling like something was slightly off every time she looked in the mirror. We sat together and I held up different size references next to her face. The moment I showed her what a medium loc would look like framing her face shape, her eyes went wide. That was the moment I committed to always having the loc size conversation before a single section is parted.
You should check my post on what happens when you stop retwisting your locs. In that post we talked about how your loc size is one of the important things to protect from the very beginning of your journey. Well, this post is the one that helps you choose that size intentionally before you ever sit in the installation chair.
Let us get into it.
Why Loc Size Actually Matters
Before we talk about face shapes specifically, I want to make sure you understand why loc size is such a significant decision in the first place. Because a lot of people walk into consultations thinking loc size is purely an aesthetic preference with no real consequences either way. That is honestly not quite accurate.
Loc size affects everything. It affects how long your locs take to mature the weight your scalp carries as your locs grow longer. It affects how your locs respond to styles and manipulation over time. Furthermore, it affects how proportional your overall look feels relative to your natural features, your neck length, and yes, your face shape.
Therefore, going into your loc installation with a clear and informed size decision is one of the most powerful things you can do for your long term satisfaction with your locs. If you are still in the very early stages of figuring out your loc journey, my post on what no one tells you about getting starter locs for the first time covers all the foundational decisions that set your entire journey up for success right from the start.
Understanding the Different Loc Sizes
Let us first get clear on what we actually mean when we talk about loc sizes, because the terminology can get a little confusing when you are researching online.
Micro Locs
Micro locs are the smallest loc size available. They are typically the width of a pencil tip or smaller. The sections used to create micro locs are very small and very numerous, which means installation takes significantly longer than any other size.
However, the result is an incredibly versatile and lightweight set of locs that can be styled in ways that larger locs simply cannot replicate.
Because of their small size, micro locs also take longer to mature and require very consistent and careful maintenance to stay healthy. If you are weighing up whether micro locs or traditional locs are the better fit for your specific hair and lifestyle, my post on micro locs vs traditional locs which is right for you gives you the most thorough and honest comparison available.
Small Locs
Small locs sit just above micro size and are one of the most popular sizes I install in my salon.
They are versatile, age beautifully as they mature, and work harmoniously with a wide range of face shapes.
Furthermore, they strike a wonderful balance between the delicacy of micro locs and the boldness of medium and larger sizes.
Medium Locs
Medium locs are the size I recommend most often during consultations, and genuinely for good reason.
They are forgiving in terms of installation precision, they mature beautifully, and they complement almost every face shape with very little adjustment needed.
Additionally, medium locs carry enough visual weight to make a statement without overwhelming the face.
Large and Chunky Locs
Large locs are bold, dramatic, and absolutely stunning when they suit the person wearing them.
They make an immediate visual impact and have a presence that smaller locs simply cannot match.
However, they also carry the most weight as they grow longer, which is something your scalp and roots need to be prepared for over time.
Freeform Locs
Freeform locs do not follow a predetermined size because they form organically without section guidelines.
Consequently, freeform locs vary in size throughout the head, with some sections forming thinner locs and others naturally congoing into thicker ones over time. The result is entirely unique to each individual.
Identifying Your Face Shape
Now that you know your size options, let us talk about face shapes. Because this is the part of the conversation where things really start to click together in a practical way.
How to Find Your Face Shape
Stand in front of a mirror with your hair completely pulled back away from your face. Look at the overall outline of your face from your hairline down to your chin.
The widest point of your face, the length from forehead to chin, and the shape of your jaw all work together to determine your face shape category.
You can also trace the outline of your face on the mirror with a bar of soap or a washable marker and step back to look at the shape clearly.
This sounds silly but it works remarkably well for people who struggle to identify their face shape just by looking.
Oval Face Shape
The oval face shape is considered the most balanced and proportional of all the face shapes.
It is slightly longer than it is wide, with a gently rounded jawline and a forehead that is marginally wider than the chin.
Best Loc Sizes for Oval Faces
If you have an oval face shape, I genuinely have wonderful news for you. Almost every loc size works beautifully with your face shape, and you have the most freedom of any face shape when it comes to this decision. However, that does not mean all sizes are equally flattering.
Medium locs are consistently the most universally stunning size on oval faces because they complement the natural balance of your proportions without tipping them in any direction. Small locs also look absolutely gorgeous and add a delicate elegance that suits the oval shape beautifully.
Very large chunky locs can sometimes visually widen an oval face more than desired, but even that depends enormously on the specific person. Therefore, if you are oval-faced and drawn to larger locs, go for it with confidence. Your face shape can handle it beautifully.
If you are curious about what your locs will look like as they grow and develop over time regardless of size, my post on the stages of locs explained from baby to fully mature gives you a full picture of the journey ahead at every single stage.
Round Face Shape
Round faces are characterised by equal width and length, with full cheeks and a softly rounded jawline.
The goal with loc size for a round face is generally to create the visual illusion of length and to avoid adding too much width at the sides.
Best Loc Sizes for Round Faces
Smaller and medium locs work particularly well for round faces because they do not add significant visual bulk at the sides of the head.
When locs are worn down, smaller sizes create a more elongated silhouette that balances the fullness of a round face very effectively.
Large and chunky locs can add considerable width and volume around the head, which can emphasise the roundness of the face rather than complementing it.
However, when larger locs are styled upward or pulled back, that width concern largely disappears.
Styling Tips for Round Faces
Volume at the top of the head works in your favour if you have a round face.
Styles that lift your locs upward, such as high buns, high ponytails, and updos with height, create the lengthening effect that balances round face proportions beautifully.
Therefore, when you are choosing your loc size, also think about the styles you love wearing most regularly.
Root health is especially important if you are consistently wearing your locs up in lifted styles. My post on why your locs are thinning at the roots and how to fix it is worth reading before you commit to any style that puts regular tension on the root area.
Heart Face Shape
Heart shaped faces have a wider forehead, high cheekbones, and a noticeably narrower, more pointed chin.
The goal with loc size for a heart face is to balance the width at the top with some visual weight at the bottom.
Best Loc Sizes for Heart Faces
Medium to larger locs work beautifully for heart face shapes because they add volume and visual weight in the lower half of the silhouette, which balances the wider forehead naturally.
When worn down past the chin, medium and larger locs frame the lower face in a way that creates gorgeous proportional balance.
Small and micro locs can sometimes emphasise the width at the top of the head on heart faces because of how they distribute volume.
However, when styled strategically, they can absolutely work well too. It really comes down to how you prefer to wear your locs day to day. A Note on Parting Patterns
The parting pattern used during installation also affects how locs sit on a heart shaped face. A middle part distributes locs evenly and softens a wider forehead naturally.
Therefore, it is worth discussing your preferred parting pattern with your loctician at your consultation alongside the size conversation.
If you are thinking about the financial side of your upcoming installation, my post on What to Expect Financially When You Start and Maintain Locs Professionally gives you a completely transparent breakdown of what to budget for depending on the size and method you choose.
Square Face Shape
Square faces have a strong, defined jawline with roughly equal width across the forehead, cheekbones, and jaw.
The goal for square face shapes is generally to soften the strong angles of the jaw while adding some length to the overall silhouette.
Best Loc Sizes for Square Faces
Medium locs are consistently flattering on square faces because they add enough volume to soften the jaw without overwhelming the face.
Small locs also work very well on square faces, particularly when they are long enough to fall past the jaw and create a lengthening effect.
Large locs on square faces can be absolutely stunning, especially when the locs are long and worn down. The length draws the eye downward and creates the elongation that balances a square jaw beautifully.
However, short large locs that end at or above the jaw can make the jawline appear wider than it is.
The Role of Length
For square face shapes specifically, length is genuinely your best friend. As your locs grow, their increasing length naturally works in your favour by creating a more elongated overall silhouette.
Therefore, try to think of your loc journey as a long game, because the longer your locs get, the more flattering they tend to become on a square face.
My post on how long it actually takes to get fully mature locs will give you a realistic and detailed timeline for how long that growth journey actually takes so you can plan your expectations accordingly.
Oblong or Rectangle Face Shape
Oblong and rectangle face shapes are noticeably longer than they are wide, with a relatively uniform width from forehead to jaw.
The goal with loc size for this face shape is to add visual width and avoid styles that add further length.
Best Loc Sizes for Oblong Faces
Larger and medium locs work particularly well for oblong face shapes because they add the visual width that balances the length of the face naturally.
The volume that larger locs create at the sides of the head is genuinely an asset for this face shape rather than a concern.
Micro locs and very small locs can sometimes make an oblong face appear even longer because they do not add significant volume at the sides.
However, worn in fuller styles that create width, even small locs can work beautifully on an oblong face.
Styling Considerations
Side swept styles, half up half down looks, and styles that create horizontal width rather than vertical height all work wonderfully for oblong face shapes.
When consulting with your loctician, mention that you love these kinds of styles and let that inform the size and parting pattern discussion together.
If you are managing your loc styling around a very full schedule, my post on How to Maintain Your Locs When You Have a Genuinely Busy Schedule shows you how to keep your locs looking intentional and styled even on the days when you have very little time to dedicate to your hair.
Diamond Face Shape
Diamond faces have a narrow forehead, wide cheekbones, and a narrow chin. It is one of the rarer face shapes and also one of the most striking.
The goal with loc size for diamond faces is to add width at both the forehead and chin while letting the cheekbones remain the natural focal point.
Best Loc Sizes for Diamond Faces
Medium locs are a wonderful fit for diamond faces because they frame the face without competing with the natural drama of the cheekbones.
Small locs also work beautifully and add a delicate quality that complements the refined proportions of a diamond face shape.
Very large locs on diamond faces can sometimes overpower the narrow forehead and chin, making the cheekbones look even more prominent than they naturally are.
However, if prominent cheekbones are something you want to celebrate rather than balance, larger locs might be exactly the bold choice you are looking for.
What to Do When You Are Between Face Shapes
Here is a truth that I share with almost every client during a consultation. Very few people have a perfectly textbook face shape.
Most people sit somewhere between two categories, and that is completely normal. Your job is not to find a perfect match but rather to identify which characteristics feel most dominant and use those as your guide.
If you have a face that feels like a combination of round and heart for example, focus on the characteristics that feel most prominent to you.
Then use the advice for that dominant shape as your starting point and adjust from there based on your personal preferences.
Furthermore, remember that your loc size decision is also deeply personal and deeply cultural. Locs carry history, identity, and meaning that goes far beyond face shape geometry.
Therefore, while this guide is a helpful tool, it is never meant to override your personal vision for your own hair and your own journey.
One Final Piece of Advice From the Chair
After every consultation where we talk about face shape and loc size, I always end with the same reminder. The most beautiful locs I have ever seen were worn by people who chose their size with confidence and owned it fully. Not because it was the technically correct choice for their face shape, but because it was the right choice for them.
Wear your locs like you meant it. Because you did. And if you are just starting out and you want to understand the full journey that lies ahead of you from this very first decision all the way to a full mature set, my post on A Beginner’s Guide to Starting Locs is the most honest starting point I can offer you.
Go choose your size. And then commit to it with everything you have.
Leave a Reply