Butterfly locs have taken the natural hair world by storm and honestly it is not hard to see why. They are soft, they are beautiful, and they have a romantic, bohemian quality that is unlike any other protective style out there. If butterfly locs have been on your radar for a while and you are finally thinking about taking the plunge, this post is for you.
There is a lot of excitement around butterfly locs right now. But alongside that excitement, there are quite a few things that do not get talked about enough before people commit to the style. As a loc technician, I have seen clients come in after getting butterfly locs without proper preparation and run into issues that could have been avoided with the right information upfront.
Before we get into everything you need to know, go and check out our last post on 12 cute ways to style locs with accessories and jewelry. A lot of those styling ideas translate beautifully to butterfly locs too. Now let’s get into the nine things you absolutely need to know before you get butterfly locs.
1. Butterfly Locs Are a Protective Style, Not Permanent Locs
This is the first and most important thing to understand. Butterfly locs are a protective style. They are not the same as traditional locs, freeform locs, or any other permanent loc method. They are installed using extensions and they are meant to be taken down after a period of time. Typically, butterfly locs are worn for six to eight weeks before removal is recommended.
A lot of people see butterfly locs and assume they are a permanent loc installation. They are not. If you are looking for a permanent loc journey, butterfly locs are not the starting point for that. However, if you want a gorgeous, low manipulation protective style that gives you the loc aesthetic temporarily, butterfly locs are one of the most beautiful options available right now.
Why the Distinction Matters
Understanding that butterfly locs are temporary matters for several practical reasons. It affects how you care for them. It affects how long you wear them. And it affects your expectations around what happens to your natural hair underneath. Going in with the right understanding from the start saves a lot of confusion later.
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2. The Installation Process Takes a Long Time
Butterfly locs are not a quick salon appointment. Depending on the length you want, your hair thickness, and the loctician or stylist doing the installation, a full butterfly loc installation can take anywhere from four to eight hours. Some installations on very long or very full sets take even longer than that.
This is something to plan for properly. Do not book your butterfly loc appointment on a day when you have somewhere to be in the afternoon. Clear your schedule. Bring snacks. Bring a phone charger. Make yourself comfortable because you are going to be in that chair for a while.
The time investment is absolutely worth it when you see the finished result. But going in without knowing how long it takes leads to frustration and rushing, and a rushed butterfly loc installation never looks as good as one that is done with proper time and care.
3. Not All Hair Types Need the Same Preparation
Your natural hair needs to be in good condition before butterfly locs are installed. This is true for any protective style but it is especially important for butterfly locs because the style involves wrapping extensions around your natural hair. If your natural hair is dry, brittle, or already experiencing breakage, installing butterfly locs over it can make those issues significantly worse.
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How to Prepare Your Hair
In the weeks leading up to your butterfly loc appointment, focus on moisture and strength. Deep condition regularly. Trim any split or damaged ends. Make sure your scalp is clean and healthy. If your hair has been through any chemical treatments recently, give it adequate recovery time before installing a protective style.
Come to your appointment with clean, moisturised, detangled hair. A good stylist will appreciate the preparation and your natural hair will thank you for it once the style comes down.
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4. The Weight Can Be Significant
Butterfly locs are fuller and softer than traditional box braids or most other protective styles. That fullness and softness comes from the distressed, fluffy texture of the extensions used. And while that texture is exactly what makes butterfly locs so beautiful, it also means the style can be quite heavy, especially on longer installations.
That weight sits on your scalp and your edges for the entire duration of the style. For most people this is completely manageable. However, for people with fine or fragile edges, or those who have experienced traction alopecia in the past, the weight of butterfly locs is worth thinking about carefully before committing.
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Protecting Your Edges
If edge health is a concern for you, communicate that clearly with your stylist before installation begins. A good stylist will make sure the locs around your perimeter are installed without excessive tension. They will also make sure the overall weight is distributed as evenly as possible to minimise stress on any single area of the scalp.
5. Butterfly Locs Need Regular Moisturising
One of the most common mistakes people make with butterfly locs is neglecting moisture once the style is installed. Because the natural hair is wrapped inside the extension, it is easy to forget that it still needs hydration. But your scalp does not stop producing sebum and your natural hair does not stop needing moisture just because it is tucked away inside a protective style.
Use a light oil or a diluted leave in conditioner applied with an applicator bottle to keep your scalp moisturised throughout the duration of the style. Focus on the scalp rather than saturating the extensions themselves. Wet, saturated extensions take a very long time to dry and damp extensions sitting against your scalp for extended periods create the kind of environment that leads to scalp issues and odour.
6. Taking Them Down Requires Patience
Butterfly loc removal is not something to rush. The distressed, fluffy texture of butterfly locs means the extensions can tangle with your natural hair more easily than smoother extension styles. Rushing the takedown process leads to unnecessary breakage and damage to your natural hair.
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The Right Way to Take Down Butterfly Locs
Work in small sections. Apply a generous amount of a detangling oil or conditioner to each loc before you begin unravelling it. Take your time separating the extension hair from your natural hair. If you feel resistance or significant tangling, stop and apply more product before continuing. Never pull or rip the extensions out. Patience during takedown protects the natural hair that your butterfly locs were installed to protect in the first place.
After removal, follow up with a thorough wash, a deep condition, and a gentle detangle before doing anything else with your hair. Your natural hair will have experienced some degree of shed hair accumulation during the weeks of wear. Give it the care and attention it deserves before moving on to the next style.
7. The Quality of the Hair You Use Matters Enormously
Not all extension hair is created equal and the quality of the hair you use for butterfly locs has a significant impact on both the look of the finished style and the health of your natural hair underneath.
Low quality synthetic hair can be rough, can tangle excessively, and can cause friction and dryness against your natural hair over the weeks of wear. Higher quality hair, on the other hand, is softer and smoother. It moves more naturally and is gentler on both your natural hair and your scalp.
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What to Look for in Butterfly Loc Hair
The most commonly used hair for butterfly locs is water wave hair combined with a straight or wavy extension for wrapping. The water wave hair creates that distinctive fluffy, distressed texture. Look for hair that is soft to the touch. Avoid hair that feels rough or synthetic when you run your fingers through it. If your stylist is sourcing the hair for you, ask about the brand and quality before your appointment.
8. Butterfly Locs Are Not Completely Maintenance Free
A lot of people get butterfly locs thinking they can simply install them and forget about them for six to eight weeks. That is not quite how it works. Like any style, butterfly locs need a degree of regular maintenance to keep them looking their best throughout the wear period.
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What Maintenance Looks Like
Moisturise your scalp regularly as mentioned earlier. Wrap your butterfly locs with a satin scarf or bonnet every single night. This reduces friction, prevents frizzing of the extensions, and keeps the style looking fresh for longer. If your edges or roots start to look overly fuzzy or unkempt before your planned removal date, a stylist can neaten them up without having to take the whole style down.
Furthermore, avoid styles that put excessive tension on your butterfly locs for extended periods. High, tight ponytails or buns worn daily can stress the roots of the locs and put unnecessary pressure on your edges.
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9. They Are Not Suitable for Every Lifestyle
Butterfly locs are a beautiful style but they are not the right fit for every lifestyle. There are a few situations where butterfly locs may not be the most practical choice and it is worth being honest about your lifestyle before you commit.
Active Lifestyles and Frequent Washing
If you work out frequently or swim regularly, butterfly locs can be challenging to manage. The fluffy, distressed texture of the extensions absorbs water and takes a very long time to dry. Locs that stay wet for extended periods after workouts or swimming develop odour and can affect the health of your scalp underneath.
This does not mean active people cannot wear butterfly locs. It simply means you need a solid plan for drying them thoroughly after every water exposure. A hooded dryer or a diffuser on a low heat setting helps speed up the drying process significantly. However, if your lifestyle involves daily water exposure, a sleeker protective style that dries more quickly might serve you better.
Work and Professional Environments
Butterfly locs are a bold, expressive style. They are widely worn and widely loved. However, if you work in a very conservative professional environment, it is worth thinking about how the style will be received before you install a set. Butterfly locs are most definitely a workplace appropriate style for the vast majority of environments. But knowing your specific workplace culture before you commit means there are no surprises when you walk in on Monday morning.
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Finding the Right Stylist for Butterfly Locs
One thing that deserves its own mention is the importance of finding a stylist who genuinely knows butterfly locs. This style requires a specific technique and skill level. A stylist who is not experienced with butterfly locs specifically can produce a result that looks nothing like what you were expecting.
Look at their portfolio before you book. Specifically look for butterfly loc installations on hair textures similar to yours. Read reviews from previous clients. Ask about the products and hair they use. And have a consultation before your appointment where you can discuss the look you want and ask any questions you have.
A great stylist makes the whole experience enjoyable. They set your expectations correctly, communicate throughout the process, and produce a result that makes you walk out of that chair feeling genuinely stunning.
Final Thoughts
Butterfly locs are one of the most beautiful protective styles available right now. When they are done well, on properly prepared hair, by a skilled stylist, the results are absolutely breathtaking. Going in with the right knowledge means you enjoy every single week of wearing them and your natural hair comes out healthy and strong on the other side.
Know what you are getting into. Prepare your hair properly. Invest in quality hair. Find a skilled stylist. Maintain the style throughout the wear period. And take them down with patience when the time comes.
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